Hello all!
Been a while since my last update, and for this I am sorry. I had a marvelous time in Venice as my previous notes have said. The only drama that I had was on departure. The first two meals that I had where dinner and breakfast. Dinner was at 8pm, breakfast at 8am. So here I am the next morning (Departure to Vienna morning) moseying on down at 7.55am to catch some breakfast for what I thought was 8am breakfast. It was 8am *Departure* - 7.50am loading the coach. I waltzed out of the lift across the foyer on my way to the breakfast room when I was interrupted by Kas, our tour guide. She said to me ‘Have you checked out yet’, I said ‘No, not yet.’, she said ‘Why not?’, I said ‘I was going to after breakfast’, she said ‘you’ve missed breakfast, everyone’s waiting on the coach for you.’ I said ‘Oh bugger’. Fortunately I had packed my bags before what I thought was going to be breakfast so I could just ride the lift, grab my bags, ride the lift, dump my bags in the maw of the coach and climb in. I was in at 8.01am to the coach, so I was moderately pleased with my efforts in the end. I must say that it was entirely my fault for being late, because I didn’t read the day’s information card that we were told about at the beginning of the tour. I only left behind a half-drunk bottle of water too.
It was a long trip to Vienna, but the scenery was good and there were regular breaks (20mins/2hr driving), plus a lunch break (45mins). Vienna blew me away frankly. I was expecting it to be a bit boring and lame, but it was amazing. The reason it is amazing is because of a fascinating family called the Hapsburgs. This family ruled Austria for over 630 years, and at various times the empire spanned most of Europe. The Hapsburgs didn’t acquire any territory from wars, but entirely from strategic marriages into other ruling families. They were artists, hard workers and pretty talented bunch all round. The empire only ended recently just after WW1 when Emperor Franz-Joseph died in 1918. In fact, the reason that WW1 started was because the Croations (I think) asassinated Archduke Ferdinand. Most of you probably knew this, as did I - but what I didn’t know was that Archduke Ferdinand was Emperor Franz-Joseph’s nephew and the heir to the Empire. This is why the Austria-Hungary empire invaded the Croats (again, I think it was them). There had previously been an attempt on Emperor Franz-Joseph’s life which had failed, and so the people built an absolutely stunning building as their ‘Rathaus’ or City hall as a kind of an ‘up-yours’ to their enemies. It is like no other city hall that I have seen - and the whole coach gasped as it emerged into view from behind some trees. It is ornate and majestic - I loved it. Sadly, in the time between the coach orientation and when I got there on foot, a circus had set itself up in front of the building, so I only really have photos from the side.
Vienna is huge, a really big city. Most of the sights from the Hapsburg family (everything there is to see in Venice) are on a ring-road that is comparably small. I could really stay several days in Vienna without fretting it too much. We started our day at the Hapsburg’s *summer* palace. These dudes where so loaded they had a summer and a winter palace. This place is absolutely vast. You look from the back of the palace down the gardens and probably about 1.5km away there is a Romanesque structure signifying the end of the gardens and the beginning of the lake. There is a beautiful fountain in between as well. There are also hedges that fan out from the back of the palace that go to separate areas of the gardens. I couldn’t see to the end of the line of hedge from the ground, that’s how far these gardens stretch for. This was a pretty nice place, but it was painted an ugly baby-poo yellow. This was because the Empress at the time’s favourite colour was yellow. She also had about 18 kids so our Scottish bus driver (Billy) joked that that wasn’t really paint that was covering the walls. This palace was where Mozart had his first concert at 6 years old. I walked through the room where he did it. Apparently when he finished his concert he jumped up on the empress’s lap and smothered her face with kisses. I then caught the U-Bahn (Subway) back to the city and jumped on and off the tram on the way around the ring-road. I have run out of superlatives for these buildings, but they just out-do each other at every turn. The Viennese take great pride in their buildings. The architect of the Vienna Opera House committed suicide after the Emperor criticised his building for being ‘too small’ for the grand streets of Vienna.
I did a tour of the catacombs in St. Stephen’s in Vienna too. That was rather gross, but really interesting. These Hapsburgs are buried in part here, along with most of the other people of import from Vienna. The Hapsburgs are a bit strange because they have bits of themselves everywhere when they die and are buried. The Bodies go in coffins in St. Stephens, their intestines go in barrels in St. Stephens, and their hearts go somewhere else. I don’t know why. The cardinals from St. Stephens are entombed in copper coffins in something like cupboards that run down the side of the catacombs. Also, another group of people (not cardinals, but similar) are buried behind a marble slab with square that signifies where they are buried. The rest of the catacombs for the normal people are where it started to get a bit queasy. They just kept putting bodies in the catacombs and expanding them until they got problems with expanding into peoples cellars and then nobody came to church because it smelt like rotting corpses (as it would). So the prisoners were conscripted to go into the catacombs with scrubbing brushes and scrub the flesh from the bones and stack the bones in an orderly fashion. The perfect solution - saves space and reduced smells! What kind of a terrible job would that have been? Yuck. So we saw areas where there were just piles of bones absolutely willy-nilly from the floor in a mound about 10 feet to near the top of a room and we saw other areas where the bones were stacked tightly and neatly. Even Austrian prisoners doing the worst job on earth do it well. That cost 3EURO (about $6AUD) and was probably the best money that I’ve spent on tours so far. It was a really interesting one.
The dinner that was included by Kumuka was at this groovy little beer hall near where we stayed. We all walked down in the rain and I tried on my bright yellow raincoat to see if it would still fit. I got some strange looks and was accused of being the dude off ‘I know what you did last summer’, but I arrived comfortably and dry. This beer hall brews it’s own beer and has lots of beer specialties. I had ‘Beer soup’, which was really very tasty; A giant pork schnitzel with Potato salad; and ‘Beer pudding’, which was a bit too sweet for me. It was kind of like a beer flummery with lots of sugar. It was a very nice dinner and was accompianied by some very fine beer. I had a 0.5L stein for 2.80EURO (About $5), but I could have got a 1L stein for about $10. The 0.5L one was huge, and none of our group got the 1L one. I would really like to go to Vienna again.
We left for Budapest in Hungary after Vienna. Billy (our coach driver) gave us the low down that Hungary was the only place where you could actually get what you order at a McDonalds. This is because in Hungarian, Shite means Cheese. This means that you can go into McDonalds, order a ShiteBurger, and nobody would raise an eyebrow and you’d get a cheeseburger. You can even get extra shite. We all raised such a commotion in the coach that we decided to drop our standards sufficiently and stop in a Hungarian McDonalds at a re-fuelling stop. I managed to keep a straight face as I ordered my shiteburger, but I couldn’t handle sitting near where the rest of my touring camerades were ordering. ‘I’ll have the chicken…., the fish….., and the shite please’. Nothing quite like hearing that and having the shiteburger you’ve been eating come up your nose as you lose yourself in a fit of giggling that you’ve been holding in.
Budapest is a great city. The Hungarian women are the most beautiful that I have seen so far in Europe. They are stunning! Our local guide (Linda) did a good job showing us around the various sites of Budapest. She was also gorgeous. Sadly I am approaching 1.5 hours at this internet cafe so Budapest won’t get the coverage that it deserves. Linda took us around the various sights in Budapest by coach quickly on the afternoon of the day that we arrived. We saw the Millenium parks (1896 - 1000 years since the Magyars settled Hungary), the Heroes square, Fisherman’s Bastion, the Parliament building, and the Palace (this one only very briefly). Budapest has some great sights and is just emerging as a tourist destination. Some of the places were stunning but the limestone facades were very dirty at a lot of the places, because the amount of time and money to restore them all is not available to the Hungarian government at the moment. There was definately progress being made though, and I think that in 5-10 years Budapest will be one of the must-see destination of Europe. They are aiming to be a member of the EU by 2006. Hungary has a fascinating history, and the last victory that they had in a *battle*, much less a war was in the 1300 or 1400s when a bloke defended Instanbul (I think it was this city which was a part of Hunary at the time) with 100 troops from 5000 turks. After this battle, the Hungarians have not won anything since. The most recent loss was in the 1950s when they tried to rebel against the Communists. The Communists killed 20 000 people within 3 days and then locked their borders down for 10 years. Another disaster story is when Austria and Turkey invaded together after a Hungarian ruler had died. There was a dispute as to who was the true ruler of Hungary between 2 men. So one of the men allied Hungary with Turkey against the Austrians, and the other man allied Hungary with Austria against Turkey. The net result was that Turkey ended up occupying half of Hungary for 150 years and Austria ended up occupying the other half for 200 years. Nice work chaps! It really is a fascinating place and I wish I could put it all here, but I’ve run out of time (1.5 hours gone so fast).
Also - I just got an email from Muenster, and it appears that I now am off the waiting list for accomodation and waiting to sign stuff. Good news!
Missing you all,
Bryce.